Wolfgang’s Steakhouse is not for the faint of heart, literally.
A one-kilogram Porterhouse steak for two would cost you back P5,988 (a little higher than the same massive slab you’d get in Wolfgang’s New York City branch, and without having to travel to the US, too). Double that Porterhouse’s size and you’d have to fork out P11,888. And we are talking about USDA Prime Graded Black Angus steak, the highest grade given by the US Department of Agriculture—delightfully tender and juicy with a buttery flavor, distinctly superior than any other steak. In fact, of all the beef produced in the US, less than two percent is certified as USDA Prime.
People who go to Wolfgang’s do so with a purpose: to eat steak, never mind that there are other non-steak options on the menu. Perhaps there is a celebration – a birthday or anniversary, or a promotion at work. Or, simply because you can. Money is not an issue. You do not walk past Wolfgang’s mahogany bar just to waffle on the bill.
“Ours is a great piece of beef. It is not frozen but chilled. We ship it within two to three days from slaughter. And the meat is aged here,” said Peter Zwiener, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse’s president, during the launch of its second branch in the Philippines (and 19th globally) at The Podium in Ortigas.
“Many people will try to follow fads or trends, but they always go back to steak. And when you open a second branch of your restaurant, that means you are doing well,” he added.
And for Wolfgang’s, which opened its flagship branch at Resorts World Manila in February 2016, they must be doing extremely well, for they are set to open a third location at One Bonifacio High Street Stock Exchange Building in June.
Globally, Zwiener said Wolfgang’s will open its first location in Europe in May and its sixth in New York City in June.
Raymund Magdaluyo, Wolfgang’s Steakhouse local partner, said the decision to open their second and third branches in the Philippines, albeit a little smaller than the first one, was demand driven.
“We initially thought that stores would be sufficient in Manila because we have four branches for the entire Japan. But traffic has worsened. Clients from the northern part of the metro kept on asking if we have plans of opening a branch that is a little closer, thus this one at The Podium,” he said.
The group is also exploring the possibility of opening a fourth branch in Cebu, although that has yet to be firmed up.
For Magdaluyo, the cost of Wolfgang’s steak is not prohibitive, considering that the same Porterhouse steak sells for $100 in their New York location.
“The pricing of Wolfgang’s is reasonable. In fact, for our Resorts World branch, we found that there is an increase in the average amount spent per guest from about $70 to $90,” he said.
And what accounts for that P1,000 ($20) increase in average spending? “Filipinos are consuming more wine,” Magdaluyo said. Their Resorts World branch has its own wine cellar, and carries an extensive selection of over 1,200 wines from across the globe.
Wolfgang’s steaks, without doubt, are worth every peso. Its side dishes, however, are another story. The lobster mac and cheese tasted a bit bland. And the creamed spinach was overcooked, tasting almost like ‘laing’ and with the texture of saluyot.
But surely, you won’t go to Wolfgang’s with creamed spinach at the top of your mind. Whatever needs improvement in their side dish selection, their glorious steaks more than make up for it. Every bite evokes a close-your-eyes-and-just-savor-the-moment-calories-be-damned reaction. It is the only respectful way to eat such a beautiful piece of meat.
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