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Sunday, September 8, 2024

Food Trip: Mapping gastronomy tourism in Cebu

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The riddle of where to get the best lechon (roasted pig) in Cebu is one asked by every outsider to which they receive a different answer depending on who they ask.

“Carcar,” one local answered. “Talisay,” another might reply. Occasionally, they may even respond with a specific joint in a particular locality.

In most cases, the best lechon comes from where the person answering lives.

The result? You end up tasting every single lechon you encounter on the road to see for yourself which one is the best.

Tasting menu

It is no wonder then that Cebu among other Philippine destinations served as the host of the first United Nations (UN) Tourism Regional Forum on Gastronomy Tourism for Asia and the Pacific.

Home to lechon, humba, pancit bam-i, and other local dishes, the island is no stranger to diverse flavors.

That is why on the occasion of the forum, attended by over 500 international delegates, there was something for everyone to enjoy.

Tuna sashimi

“The Department of Tourism (DOT) is thrilled to announce that we are going all out to promote the Philippines’ vibrant gastronomy and food culture as we host the inaugural (forum),” Tourism Secretary Christina Garcia Frasco said.

“In line with this, we have gathered a remarkable lineup of world-renowned and award-winning Filipino chefs, as well as beloved chefs from different regions of the country, to showcase the richness of Filipino cuisine and highlight the diversity of our local ingredients as we invite our guests to ‘Eat their way through the Philippines,’” she added.

The event indeed featured a regional lunch, consisting of a buffet of dishes across the country’s network of cuisines.

Present at the venue were Chef Waya Araos-Wijangco (Cordillera Administrative Region), Chef Xavier Mercado (Region 1), Chef Jehan Damasco (Region 2), Chef Howard Dizon (Region 3), the Lyceum of the Philippines University Culinary Institute – Laguna (Region 4A), Chef Nathaniel Imson (Region 4B), Chef Andhei Nacion (Region 5), Chef Ariel Castañeda and Chef Paul Dane Aligaer (Region 6), Chef June Rhoses Fernandez (Region 7), Chef Rolf Arwin Lopez Y (Region 8), Chef Jose Mari Alavar Alfaro (Region 9), Chef Ruthcini Marie Tabiqu (Region 10), Chef Clinton Gregorio and Renante Raseroni (Region 11), Chef Ronald Ferman (Region 12), Chef Yvette Atis (Region 13), and Chef Tahir Malikol and Chef Miguel Cabel Moreno (Office of Muslim Affairs and Mindanao Promotions).

These chefs personally served and explained the craft that went behind their iterations of famed Filipino food like traditional Kapampangan sisig to more adventurous takes like laksa palabok.

“The event will not only elevate the Philippines as a gastronomic destination but also provide a platform for collaboration and exchange of knowledge among international culinary experts. We look forward to a successful forum that will provide impetus to positioning the Philippines as a preferred culinary haven for travelers and gastronomy tourism destination,” Frasco said.

A bold undertaking it might seem, but the Tourism Department definitely succeeded in representing the variety of flavor profiles peppered throughout our country’s more than 7,000 islands.

Melting pot

Aside from being the site of the UN Tourism Regional Forum as well as the 36th Joint Commission Meeting of the Commission for East Asia and the Pacific and the Commission for South Asia (CAP-CSA), Cebu also hosted technical tours to help visualize gastronomy tourism in motion.

Lechon manok

Delegates, in close coordination with the Provincial Government of Cebu, respectively toured the Camotes Islands, Argao and Dalaguete, and Bojo in Aloguinsan.

For instance, the towns of Argao and Dalaguete toward southern Cebu have maintained a wealth of historical and cultural sites. These include well-preserved churches that serve as prominent pilgrimage sites attracting religious tourists and contributing to Cebu’s faith-based tourism industry.

Of course, such are relics of Spanish colonial architecture and designated National Historical Landmarks. These hence pass down a rich colonial history that in turn influences the culinary heritage of Argao and Dalaguete.

The result is the renowned “torta” that has become a must-try staple of Cebu’s heritage towns. This refers to a local cake prepared with egg yolks and fermented coconut milk, prepared manually right before your eyes as the cooking methodology was also faithfully preserved.

Throughout the journey, delegates were also able to purchase various crafts and culinary goods from locals themselves, a simple act that will surely go a long way in keeping the circle of gastronomy tourism going.

“These interactions will yield valuable collaborations that will boost our local economy and enhance our reputation as a culinary hotspot,” UN Tourism Ambassador for Gastronomy Tourism Chef Margarita Forés said.

She makes a good case for gastronomy tourism, which has become a major driver for travel among tourists everywhere.

According to the World Food Travel Association, around 80 percent of travelers research food and drink while visiting a destination, with more than half classified as “culinary travelers.”

Surely enough, it is a valuable market that the Philippine tourism sector has its eye on. And they are keenly aware that gastronomy tourism is more than just promoting food trips.

“As we intensify our diversification of the country’s tourism portfolio through multidimensional tourism, we strongly see food as a crucial element in enhancing the Philippine cultural experience,” Frasco said.

“In addition to integrating food in festivals, arts and crafts, traditions, and practices, we are actively working towards supporting the development of halal/Muslim-friendly tourism, heritage villages for cultural communities, and the preservation of farms and heritage sites,” she added.

One for the road

All that aside, there is one riddle that remains unanswered: So which is the best lechon after all?

You learn that they could all possibly be right.

Each lechon is distinct, differently but equally appealing. One may have crispier, more glassy skin, while another has tastier, more succulent meat.

Answering this riddle of the best Cebu lechon is the key to understanding the science that is gastronomy tourism, as well as unlocking the full potential of tourist destinations everywhere.

That is, traveling is always the answer. But it is one you will have to see for yourself.

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