Taking a cue from the long narrative of The Thousand and One Nights, made famous by the fictional Scheherezade of Samarkand, here goes the continuation of my narrative on my activities in this beautiful and culturally rich city.
Being an important center for Islamic culture and scholarship, plus having an abundance of exotic arts and crafts, the city earned the moniker, “The Eden Of The East” way before that absurd Japanese anime TV series of the same name hit the limelight.
Our second day’s tour brought us to the very interesting Afrosiyab Museum which has artifacts from one of the largest archaeological sites in the world. Afrosiyab was an ancient city, destroyed by the Mongols in the 13th century, from which Samarkand evolved.
Named after a mythical king and hero, the museum details the story of the founding of Samarkand, not only through precious artifacts found during the excavations but also through uniquely preserved murals from the Samarkand Palace.
We also had the chance to visit another ancient city in Uzbekistan—Bukhara was a prominent stop on the Silk Road trade route and a major medieval center for Islamic theology and culture. The visit lasted the whole day because it took us 4 hours to reach there from Samarkand, but what we saw made the long trip well worth it.
The city still has well-preserved mosques, madrassahs, and bazaars that date back to as early as the 9th century. It was like I was in a time travel to the past. Everything around me was exactly what I saw in movies with Biblical themes. It was surreal.
The landmarks of particular interest include the tomb of Ismail Samani, an awesome masterpiece of 10th century Muslim architecture, as you can see in the photo on this page. Its walls’ intricate design makes you think it’s a fully embroidered item when seen from a distance.
I also found the city’s trading domes unique. In the olden days, these domes were bustling trading centers in the city, each specializing in different goods. Today, these domes are marketplaces selling anything and everything.
Back in Samarkand, I was given a choice to discover more of the city by availing of the In. Visible Samarkand tour package, described as an immersive performance excursion. It sounded very interesting because you’d be given earphones to guide you to the city’s very interesting but hard-to-find local color, through a 100-minute verbally annotated journey. But when I found out I had to walk all the way, I turned it down. Not only do I get tired easily when walking, but the current temperature in Samarkand is like Manila’s, ranging from 38 to 42 degrees.
Another stop in our tour which I thoroughly enjoyed was the Khovrenko Winery. When Uzbekistan was still part of USSR, many Russian traders and entrepreneurs explored what riches the Uzbek land could provide. Samarkand was growing an excellent variety of grapes which has a high sugar content. A Russian winemaker and businessman soon opened a winery and immediately progressed through many decades. Khovrenko Winery is the oldest in Central Asia.
It has a tasting room in a historical 19th century building, the house of its founder, where you are served four white wines, four red wines, and two cognacs, together with crackers and cheese. It was indeed a pleasant way to end a sightseeing tour.
Thanks to FIA’s (Federation Internationale de l’Automobile) invitation to its 120th anniversary, my friends and I also had a chance to dine at the city’s most expensive restaurant, the Mo’Jiza which, in Uzbek, means “a miracle done by a prophet.” I don’t know if the “miracle” refers to the restaurant’s giant-sized, panoramic LED screen which serves as a most colorful backdrop for its dancers and singers, or to the bountiful food it serves. We enjoyed the 2-hour dinner served by an army of waitstaff, while colorful Uzbek dances and operatic singers performed. Whetting our appetite was the restaurant’s luxurious interiors, its ceiling décor especially, all Instagrammable from any angle.
All in all, from Samarkand’s amazing architectural designs, important historical personalities, intricate and colorful mosaics of its landmark mosques and mausoleums, and the buzz of its bazaars, there is plenty to marvel at in this culturally rich Eden of the East.
For feedback, I’m at bobzozobrado@gmail.com