Along the busy roadside of Paterno Street in Laoag, Ilocos Norte, tucked between modest storefronts and family homes, stands a humble eatery that has become something of a national curiosity, not for its interiors or location, but for its most loyal and powerful patron.
President Ferdinand “Bongbong” Marcos Jr. has made no secret of his love for Ilocano food. And whenever he’s back in his home province, he almost always makes time for one place: Dawang’s Eatery.
Known for serving Ilocano staples like paksiw, pinakbet, tinuno (grilled pork), dinengdeng, and kinelnat (ensalada), Dawang’s has been part of the Marcos family’s comfort food landscape for years.
Dawang’s began serving meals in the late 1960s, first at a small stall “at the back of Capitol,” according to its current owner Kevin Dawang. His grandmother founded the eatery, which was later passed down to his father. Since 2016, Kevin, the third generation, has taken over.
“The story starts with my grandmother,” Kevin said in a previous interview.
“When she got sick, it was passed down to my father. And now, it’s me. I’m proud that we’ve continued that lineage,” he added.
He recalled the President’s first visit around the same year he took over the business.
“His usual order is the paksiw and pinakbet, then kinelnat. Ilocano classics,” he added.
Kevin said their recipes haven’t changed much, nor has the spirit behind them.
“We try to give the new generation a taste of the past, the food their grandparents ate, in the most proud and respectful way,” he said.
Dawang’s may be a carinderia, with its glass display cases, laminated tables, and simple plastic stools, but for many Ilocanos, it’s a place where tradition is kept alive with every serving of lauya (pork stew), igado, or dinardaraan (dinuguan).
For the President, it’s a reminder of the tastes and textures of his youth.
President Marcos has previously spoken about the importance of preserving regional cuisine as part of cultural identity and tourism.
“Many foreigners are already impressed by the unique deliciousness of our food. So, I hope that we Filipinos ourselves will take the lead in recognizing the various dishes made and cooked by Filipinos,” Mr. Marcos said during the celebration of Filipino Food Month earlier this year.
In Ilocos, that story is told every day at Dawang’s, in the simmering pots, in the unchanged recipes, and in the quiet presence of a President who never forgot where he came from.
And whether it’s a tricycle driver or the country’s chief executive taking a seat at Dawang’s, the welcome and the meal stay the same.
