Taiwan and paella 

A Christmas far from home but still feels familiar

“No comes paella, vas de paella,” and so they say in Spain when someone invites you to their home for a plate (or two) of paella.

The phrase, which translates to “you don’t eat paella, you go with paella,” highlights that this well-loved Spanish dish is more than food served on special occasions. For most people, especially those from Valencia, Spain, paella is a communal experience and not just a meal that is passively consumed.

From the farmers who grow the rice and seasonal vegetables used in cooking paella to abuelas who argue about how to cook the rice, paella is a way of life.

The story of how paella came to be has different versions. Some mention it originated when the Moors introduced and cultivated rice in the Albufera wetlands around the eighth century.

Others credit it to the Albufera rice farmers. Back in the 15th century, the farmworkers needed a substantial meal to keep up with their agricultural work. As they gathered around the paddies, they would put whatever was readily available into a pot and cook it.

Soon, its popularity spread throughout Valencia and into the world.

“It was the long-time favorite of my dad, whose birthday falls on Christmas Day. Cooking this paella brings back fond memories of our family gatherings, laughter, and sharing meals together,” shared chef Jester Garcia Arellano, who is currently the program chairperson of the Culinary Arts Management of the De La Salle–College of Saint Benilde (DLS-CSB).

Chef Jester holds over a decade of experience in culinary education. In addition to his teaching responsibilities, he successfully managed Solomon Guesthouse and Andrew Café, casual dining restaurants operated by the budding talents from the Benilde School of Hotel, Restaurant, and Institution Management (SHRIM).

Prior to becoming a full-time educator and mentor to a young pool of aspiring culinarians, his extensive background included positions as a banquet chef in the hotel industry, as well as a research and development chef for a prominent fast-food chain.

Having worked at Carme Ruscalleda Sant Pau, a three-Michelin-star dining destination in Sant Pol de Mar, Barcelona, chef Jester created his own version of Seafood Paella (Paella de Marisco), an ideal entrée for family and loved ones to savor during Noche Buena.

His version features aromatic short-grain rice cooked in a rich saffron-infused broth and highlights a mouthwatering array of fresh seafood, from shrimp and squid to mussels and clams.

“I have crafted a simpler version that fits perfectly into the hustle and bustle of Noche Buena preparations using local and more affordable ingredients,” he shared.

He added: “Many components, such as the seafood broth and pre-cooked seafood, can be prepped a day in advance, making it a breeze to serve during Christmas Eve.”

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This year, I would be missing the warmth and familiarity of a traditional Paskong Pinoy, as I’m spending the holidays in Taiwan with my family.

Unlike in the Philippines, where Christmas is a major celebration filled with long festivities and family gatherings, Dec. 25 in Taiwan is, for most people, an ordinary working or school day. It was once observed as Constitution Day, but today it passes quietly on the calendar.

There are a few signs of the season. Some storefronts have holiday decorations, with Christmas music occasionally playing in the background. Tourist spots, as always, are filled with lively crowds.

In Taiwan, the lights are bright and beautifully arranged, but they lack the familiar shape and meaning I associate with Christmas.

I will be missing the Philippine parol, the iconic star-shaped lantern that lights up homes, streets, and churches throughout the Christmas season. More than just a decoration, the parol symbolizes hope, faith, and the guiding light of the Christmas story. Back home, its warm glow is everywhere, a quiet reminder of togetherness and resilience.

Still, it will be a welcome change of pace for the holidays. I’m looking forward to exploring the old streets of Jiufen and Shifen, taking in their lantern-lit views and waterfalls, and enjoying the experience of food-tripping and shopping in Ximending. Even without the familiar traditions of home, this different kind of Christmas promises its own set of memories to cherish.

Happy holidays, everyone!