Four in the morning calls for the sound of church bells tolling for the misa de gallo. The entire congregation walks into the pews in attendance of the nine-day novena. The smell of freshly steamed rice cakes from stalls a few meters away can be felt upon entering the halls. The cold air that wraps around one’s long sleeves, the bright lights that govern the scenery, and the food that brings comfort to one’s appetite could only herald one thing. Christmas is already drawing near.
But what’s with puto bumbong and bibingka that binds Filipinos together since these were introduced centuries ago?
Puto bumbong is what you get when you take glutinous rice grains and ube mixed with water, rolled cylindrically, and cooked in coal-induced steam. It is the go-to snack for mass goers as a reward for their attendance of the morning mass. This was reportedly the snack that accompanied Miguel Lopez de Legazpi from Mexico on his way to the islands in the far east. The otherwise bland taste is laden with sweet garnishes. Some amount of grated cheese, fresh coconut or muscovado sugar can do wonders to complement the satiating dish.
Bibingka, meanwhile, is another steamy creature that follows the same method as to how puto bumbong is cooked. Rice flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, an egg, some drops of oil and milk are all whisked together and placed in small clay pans laden with banana leaves. A few slices of salted egg can be topped early on. Once heated with coal, the fluffy texture will begin to surface as dark spots can now be seen there. Topping it off with some coconut, sugar, or grated cheese further completes this staple dish.
Food, like many of our old practices, plays an important part in keeping our longstanding traditions during the holiday season. The sticky nature of puto bumbong has long been associated with the strong ties within families. Bibingka, too, symbolizes joy and satisfaction after an hour’s worth inside the church. These delicacies withstood the changes, brought by other Western influences, by staying true to what and how it should be prepared. Despite the presence of newer techniques, nothing beats clay pots and charcoal in heating them ‘til perfection.
Paskong Pinoy can never be without serving its rich tradition of puto bumbong and bibingka. These staple foods satisfy one’s hunger while also keeping in touch with the things that bind people together during the holidays. A cup of salabat, hot chocolate or taho may complement them enough for chewing, but these dishes can be served and enjoyed well on their own.
