Pork is vital in Filipinos’ diets because of its accessibility and versatility in nearly every dish. Yet despite these benefits, too much pork consumption can lead to health problems and a longing desire to expand one’s flavor palate. And that’s what self-made businessman and racehorse breeeder Herminio “Hermie” Esguerra hopes to address with the unique pork breed he raises on his farm.
Located in Lipa, Batangas, Esguerra Farms & Stud Inc. provides the ideal environment to raise Kurobuta pigs, the Japanese name for the heritage breed, which means “black pig” and has the distinct white on its snout, lower legs, and the tip of its tail.
In other parts of the globe, people know Kurobuta as the rare Berkshire breed from the United Kingdom that produces meat worthy of the moniker “wagyu of pork.” But in Esguerra Farms, they are known as “happy pigs.”
Meat fit for royalty
The Berkshire pig can grow double in size than other pig breeds across the globe. Yet people revere it for its tender meat, packed with intensely tasty, creamy fat, which earned it the name “lard pig.”
According to the American Berkshire Association, the British Royal Family kept Berkshires at Windsor Palace for hundreds of years, making its meat a staple in royal banquets and other gatherings.
By 1823, the first Berkshire pigs made their way to the USA, where it was rapidly absorbed into the general hog population for the improvement they created when crossed with early American stock.
In the 18th century, the Japanese brought some pigs back to raise as well, allowing themselves to indulge in the succulent meat from the breed.
Developing a natural, stress-free environment
Esguerra Farm began in 2000 as a family refuge from city life. It later became the birthplace of some of the country’s premier racehorses before transitioning to producing quality fruits and vegetables while providing a nurturing environment for farm animals.
A friend introduced Esguerra and his family to Kurobuta pork, which drew the businessman’s interest. He set out to develop his farm and its components to accommodate the pigs in the Philippines and raise them under stress-free conditions to ensure their meat quality.
Since Kurobuta pigs aren’t native to the Philippines, Esguerra Farms breeds imported Berkshire pigs with local variants with desirable qualities until they get an offspring that’s well-acclimatized to the country’s environment.
Esguerra is hands-on in managing and maintaining the farm–all 55 hectares. But when it comes to the Kurobuta pigs, he’s very strict about biosecurity. The farm owner limits entry to the allotted premises to ensure the pigs don’t contract any disease.
As an added prevention measure, all workers residing on the farm must take a bath and change clothes and footwear before entering the livestock section. They also can’t consume other pork not from the farm to avoid picking up any diseases, like African Swine Fever (ASF), which impacted the local industry for years since it entered the Philippines.
In the meantime, he developed various parts of the farm to allow the pigs to roam freely and experience the natural elements, like sun, wind, and rain.
The farm also refrains from raising the pigs using hormones and chemicals, keeping a strict regimen similar to raising cows that produce wagyu beef. Speaking of hormones, Esguerra Farms maintains their pigs’ happiness until slaughter to prevent cortisol, the flight-or-flee stress hormone, from seeping into the meat and affecting product quality.
It takes complete coordination and adherence to the protocols to secure the quality of Kurobuta pork Esguerra Farms prides itself in.
Compared to commercial pork, Kurobuta pork has marbled fats within its meat, similar to beef to the untrained eye. The farm produces cuts like tomahawk, coppa, and ribeye for the market, while also accepting requests for specific portions, revolutionizing how Filipinos eat pork. Other products include cured meat, like hams, and household cuts, which can be used in making traditional Filipino dishes.
They also have a special cochinillo. Suckling pigs, just a month from birth, are fed mostly milk and harvested after they are weaned, then roasted for hours using a special oven that regulates even cooking and crisping.
Kurobuta pork from Esguerra Farms is available in various retailers, hotels, and restaurants in the Philippines. Although a bit pricey, the farm ensures that every succulent bite is worth it because of the meticulous methods used in raising the pigs.
Making the most of the space
Besides the Kurobuta pigs and award-winning racehorses, Esguerra Farms is also home to various livestock and aquaculture. As his passion project, Esguerra slowly but surely transitioned the farm to accommodate more elements to diversify the farm’s ecosystem and improve its practicality. In some parts of the farm, sheep and goats freely roam to enjoy the sprawling greenery.
The goats are notable because, besides raising Anglo-Nubian and Boer goats, known for their milk and meat production, respectively, Esguerra also breeds both to create a specific variant desirable for milk and meat production.
Another sight on the farm is Pekin ducks. Like its other livestock, the ducks in Esguerra Farm grow in a free-range setup since it works best. Moreover, the ducks contribute to a balanced, natural ecosystem within the premises.
Esguerra Farms also dabbles in aquaculture, with several tilapia ponds regularly maintained. From their enclosure, the ducks have access to the ponds to eat any pests that could disrupt or hinder tilapia growth. Growing on the ponds are Azolla or duckweed, which ducks and tilapia feed on.
One venture Esguerra set his eyes on is catfish production. Although still in its early stages, he envisions producing catfish that eliminates the foul taste and odor most people associate with it.
Instead of using ponds to raise them, he utilizes a conical receptacle for the fingerlings. This simple yet effective approach allows them to drain the water frequently and remove any impurities to maintain a sanitary environment for the catfish fingerlings to grow in.
Meanwhile, various fruits and vegetables are growing in abundance throughout the farm. Some examples include avocados, bananas, dragonfruit, and more.
As an ever-dedicated individual, Esguerra’s passion for agriculture is evident in the success he sees from how Filipinos embrace its products and the happy animals raised on his sprawling property. He uses his innovativeness to create measures and technology to bring out the best results that foster economic, employee, and environmental wellness.
