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Thursday, April 18, 2024

Rediscovering and falling in love with Siargao

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A few weeks ago, I was at the surfing capital of the Philippines, Siargao, to see some of the lovely spots I first visited more than a decade ago, and at the same time, to support a friend who was doing a livelihood program on this beautiful island. 

This tear-drop-shaped island off the coast of the Philippines about 196 km southeast of my hometown Tacloban, is part of Surigao del Norte in Mindanao. It is known as a ‘surfer’s paradise’ because of its high, beautiful waves to ride, sometimes as tall as 12 feet in some places with others at eight feet. Apart from that, the province has trip-worthy places – white sand beaches with crystal clear waters, enchanting rivers, lagoons, amazing snorkeling or diving spots, and fishing destinations among many others.  

Siargao, the surfing capital of the Philippines, with its beautiful beaches and enchanting spots offer a rest for a weary soul, as it gifts you with lovely memories to look back on in the future (Image by Janine Albea Bonaobra)

More than these, what made me fall in love with this island is its people. They are so warm, welcoming, and kind. To think that many of its areas are still recovering from the havoc brought about by the typhoon Odette last December 16, 2021. It is for this reason that my friend, Maris Tomas, a plant-based chef with a big heart, came to this island for a feeding and livelihood program. 

‘Bangon Siargao: A Livelihood Program’

Organized by Life’s A Beach Apartments in Malinao, Siargao, Maris traveled from June 23 to 30, to six barangays in Siargao namely Bitaug, Burgos, San Benito, Santa Fe, Union, and Malinao to teach the locals some recipes, cost studies, nutrition guides, and ideas how to start their home-based businesses. This initiative, made possible in cooperation with Lokal Lab, Humane Society International, and Kolekbibo, is part of their collective efforts to help Siargao community with a long-term solution as they get back on their feet after typhoon Odette devastated the island. 

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The famous surfing spot in Cloud 9, General Luna, Siargao, during lowtide

Before the activities, the team raised funds for “veggie packs” which were distributed to the participants of the cooking demo conducted by Maris in six barangays.

“Apart from my desire to visit the island that has captured the hearts of many, this passion project is my way of helping and giving back to the people and communities, who are or will be playing a role in my career as a plant-based chef. When it comes to helping, I know how it feels like to be on the receiving end. I am grateful for this chance to be the one to give,” shares Maris, who is also a member of Humane Society International, a non-government organization working around the globe to promote the human-animal bond as well as confront cruelty to animals. 

Sugba Lagoon is easily one of my favorite destinations in Siargao Island (Image by Janine Albea Bonaobra)

Meeting new friends and getting to know Siargao more

I was not able to catch Maris in Siargao as she was feeling a bit under the weather on the day that we were supposed to be in Siargao at the same time; she needed to do a last-minute rebooking of the flight so she could rest well before her activities. I was in Siargao for five days, and that was more than enough time to rekindle my love for this island. 

I joined a group tour for a full day of island hopping, and this is something I’d recommend to fellow solo travelers. Not only did I get to see some of Siargao’s beautiful islands, but I also met and befriended wonderful people from other parts of the country who, like me, were also enchanted by the island. We explored the Naked, Daku, Guyam islands plus this “secret” island, which only comes into view during low tide. Our guide arranged for a sumptuous lunch to be eaten in boodle-fight style at Daku Island and I must say the “Boodle Fight Master of Siargao,” who by the way, can be contacted on Facebook, did an awesome job. 

Maasin River in Siargao is famous for its enchanting beauty and crystal clear water

The next day, my new friends – composed of three beautiful young ladies from the Bicol region – and I, did a land tour to visit other must-see spots in Siargao. The first stop was the small town of Maasin, a 25-minute ride from the main tourist hub of General Luna, and famous for its crystal clear Maasin River. Along the way, we made a quick stop at an elevated road overlooking a vast coconut farm. 

Next, was the captivating Sugba Lagoon, which has got to be one of the most beautiful places to see in Siargao. I mean, you must see it to believe me as the photos I took of the places can never justify its beauty. The clear, serene water with fish of various kinds and hues, I think, is enough to charm any visitor. I heard some tourists decided to permanently reside close to Sugba Lagoon for its allure. 

Boodle-fight style lunch put together by local legend known as the Boodle Fight Master of Siargao

The last stop was Magpupungko Rock Pools, Siargao’s epic blue water pools on rocky flats by the beach, close to the town of Pilar and approximately 40-minutes away from Gen. Luna. If you’ve been having some weary days, I can assure you that just dipping your toes into one of its pools will brush your stress and tiredness away. Though it was a little bit crowded when we got there, there were plenty of pools to dip in, and you can just close your eyes and relax as you take in the beauty around. In there, my new friends saw some people who are part of a band they met at a bar the night prior, and an invitation to go to Santa Fe for a gig ensued. 

Siargao’s Fête de la Musique 2022 

My visit coincided with the Fête de la Musique 2022, which was going live at different venues nationwide. For those unfamiliar, Fête de la Musique is one of the most popular free music events celebrated in 130 countries all over the world, which just made a comeback in the country since the pandemic. After two online editions in 2020 and 2021, Fête PH 2022 showcased some fresh acts in the local music arena with live acts across Metro Manila, Palawan, Baguio, and Siargao, where I happened to be at the time it was being celebrated. 

Humane Society International’s plant-based chef Maris Tomas travels from June 23 to 30 to six barangays in Siargao for a livelihood project

Entitled “Tara Allez!” or “Let’s Go!” in colloquial Filipino, Fête PH 2022 was both a collaboration between artists from the Philippines and France and at the same time, a commemoration of the 75th anniversary of France-PH bilateral relations. The main stage was at the Puerto Real Gardens in Intramuros last June 25, however, to push the 2021 virtual #FetefromMyIsland theme, Fête PH 2022, teamed up with partners across the country to support their own physical live music events. This included Lokal Lab for the Siargao Stage on June 21 in Sta Fe Beachfront, where I had the opportunity to enjoy along with my new friends and their new friends. It was so much fun, to say the least, what with a beachfront playground turned into a sort of dance floor where local and foreign tourists gleefully took over as a live band set and maintained the tone and pace from the stage. 

Capping off the trip 

The fun didn’t end there; on our last night on the island, we went to a popular pub/bar called Sibol where we met the same group we saw at the Fête in Santa Fe. The alcoholic drinks may have played some role, but yes, we did have some blast. The Backtraxx – Trios Musikeros from Digos City in Davao del Sur took the stage and played some in-demand beats, creating a dance floor out of every space the bar has. We all concluded that it was the best way to end our trip – a fun night with wonderful people we met on the island. 

For feedback, you may email the author at joba.botana@gmail.com.

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