The Islamic City of Marawi in Lanao del Sur is working to polish an image that has long been tainted by violence and unrest. Its newly elected mayor, Atty. Majul Gandamra, wants to discard this reputation. He’s bent on turning his city into a tourist destination and he intends to accomplish this by showcasing Marawi’s distinct location, the scenic spots and the Maranao heritage.
“Marawi City is blessed with cool climate, a rich culture, exquisite Maranao cuisine,” he said. “The Maranao hospitality is palpable. The city sits on high ground; so it is cool all year round. Its pleasant climate makes it the summer capital of the Autonomous Region for Moslem Mindanao.”
Those who’ve visited the city would agree with Mayor Gandamra. First-time visitors are immediately disarmed by the serene character of the place, which is a sharp contrast to its turbulent past. Tree-lined streets and majestic mosques make it one of the country’s most picturesque cities. Ensconced at an elevation of roughly 2,300 feet, the city overlooks the largest lake in Mindanao, Lake Lanao, just right where the mouth of Agus River is located.
Marawi City’s inhabitants have been predominantly Muslim. This has been so since the 14th century when an Arab-Malay, Sharriff Muhammed Kabunsuwan journeyed to the Lake Lanao region from Johore, Malaysia and introduced Islam to the native population. Islam thrived in the region through the centuries even as the country became a Spanish colony. The Spaniards did make attempts to conquer Marawi and they finally did so just prior to the arrival of the Americans. Yet at present, roughly 92 percent of the city’s population is composed of Muslims. The influence of the Spaniards and Americans had failed to make an impact on the people. Thus the heritage of the Maranaos remains intact in Marawi City.
To have a taste of the genuine Maranao culture, it’s best to explore the Padian market located in the Banggolo district, where the vendors are garbed in traditional Maranao attire. This market is a showcase of fresh produce, fried and skewered fish. The food here is similar to the Malay cuisine. It’s rich with coconut milk, fresh turmeric and spices. Laced with yellow ginger, olive oil and laurel leaves, the Maranao rice goes with palapa, a meat dish with caramelized shallots, ginger and red chili and beef rendang with coconut milk and spices.
One can also shop for shijabs, stunning malongs and other ethnic fabrics, and brassware. Such exotic items share space with a few modern products such as cell phone covers, fancy umbrellas and just about every consumer item there is. It’s a bustling, colorful place and a haven for bargain hunters.
The city’s old world character is enhanced by the imposing homes of the well-to-do Maranaos. The houses, dubbed the torogan, highlight a distinct architectural style that is characterized by such bright and sinuous okir patterns and the panolong which are carved beams that use a serpent pattern. Malongs serve as curtains that hang from the rafters.
One of the most important landmarks in Marawi City is the flagship campus of the Mindanao State University. Its school buildings echo the architecture of the torogan house, what with their high gable roofs, flaring eaves, stilts and other embellishments. The main entrance itself is framed by two towers with domed caps.
The campus has a panoramic view of Lake Lanao, which is sometimes shrouded in mist in the early mornings, making the place seem so mystical. Another campus attraction is the Aga Khan Museum of Islamic Arts, which houses the country’s largest collection of Muslim artifacts from the various ethnic groups in Mindanao. And there’s the fascinating doll collection of Dr. Sainuddin Malawani Moti. His company, D-Doll Enterprise, produces dolls dressed as the characters from the Maranao adventure epic, Darangen. The costumes of these dolls look so authentic; they’re painstakingly embroidered and encrusted with beadwork.
Another famous landmark is the Mindanao Islamic Center Mosque, which is famous for its very regal-looking turret and tranquil courtyard. It’s the most ideal venue for prayer. Even the city’s most prominent hotel manages to make its own contribution to the exotic skyline of Marawi. The Marawi Resort, which is located within the campus of the Mindanao State University, also highlights the torogan architectural style.
It’s also hard to miss the Kilometer 0.000 marker that welcomes motorists to the city. Serving as a sort of gateway to Marawi, the marker features an eye-catching Okir pattern. For those arriving in the city, the marker serves as a foretaste of the sights to behold. For those who are about leave, the marker serves as a reminder of the captivating heritage that thrives in the city they had just explored.
Asked my relatives and friends, how important is heritage, culture and tradition to the Maranaos and how they express these in their daily life, “The Maranao heritage is something very important to me and family. Foremost is the idea of marriage. Although we have the opportunity to meet people from across the globe with my daughter asking me when she was six why she is the only white girl in school who has black hair, I emphasize that I want them to be married to someone Maranoa. I think it's a challenge for us who have chosen to live outside of the Philippines to have this ideal but I consider it a must. Although not necessarily unique to Maranaw culture, clothing is something we also are careful about. Not much exposure as my daughter calls it. I live in Florida surrounded by beaches and my friends have accepted us being fully clothed while everybody else are in their two-piece bikinis,” Dr. Samerah Ariman Guro proudly shared. She is an assistant Professor at Florida State University College of Medicine.