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Friday, March 29, 2024

Making Marco Polo proud

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The Venetian merchant Marco Polo, who explored the Silk Road for two decades starting in 1271, would probably be thrilled to know that a hotel named after him is offering some of the finest Italian and Chinese dishes. The intrepid traveller would have appreciated such an “east meets west” set-up that puts a premium on authenticity.

Take the dragon fruit with sweetened bird’s nest, a creation of Chef Lai Cheuk Kou of Lung Hin, Marco Polo Ortigas’ contemporary Chinese restaurant. A subtle dessert with contrasting textures, the bird’s nest – a Chinese delicacy prized for its health benefits (boosts the immune system and acts as an aphrodisiac) – blends well with the slightly tangy flavor of the dragon fruit.

It is one of several dishes prepared by Chef Lai which reflect his Cantonese culinary experience – having served in several well-known restaurants in the mainland and in Hong Kong for the past 36 years.

The dishes, he said, are perfect for the summer season in China, and in a way, perfect for what feels like a perpetually hot weather in the country.

Start with an appetizer combination of steamed diced pumpkin, marinated cucumber with wasabi and vinegar, blanched jellyfish, and salt-baked chicken. His main dishes include cheese-baked tiger prawns served on a pizza bed; pan-fried diced beef cubes; double-boiled duck soup with goji berry seeds; steamed garoupa with cordyceps; wok-fried vegetables; and Macau-style seafood fried rice.

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There is no shortage of food choices at Marco Polo Ortigas, from authentic Cantonese cuisine to Italian dishes with innovative twists: (clockwise) burrata cheese with tomatoes and Parma ham, Wagyu beef cheek with barolo sauce; steamed garoupa with cordyceps; cheese-baked tiger prawns, and dragon fruit with sweetened bird’s nest.

Goji berry seeds and cordyceps, in particular, are known for their health benefits. Goji berry is considered as a kind of super food packed with antioxidants while cordycep mushroom increases blood flow to the liver and other organs and improves overall oxygen use. Chef Lai then achieves a balanced menu by making use of healthy and top seasonal ingredients without sacrificing taste (and presentation, for that matter).

Over at Marco Polo’s buffet restaurant Cucina, Italian Chef Andrea Delzanno, who flew in from Hong Kong, completed the east-meets-west gastronomic experience.

The chef treated guests to Mediterranean feasts from June 7 to 11, with a decadent selection of antipasti such as Parma ham and melon as well as tomato and mozzarella caprese; roasted lamb rack with garlic and herbs; stewed chicken cooked cacciatore-style (hunter-style with onions, herbs, tomatoes and wine); risotto with mushrooms; and penne black truffle cream sauce.

Delzanno, who trained with chefs of Michelin-starred restaurants at the young age of 20, from Italy to New York, all the way to Asia, was playful enough to introduce innovative twists in his dishes while paying homage to centuries-old traditions of Italian cuisine. His slow-cooked Wagyu beef cheek, for example, was paired with barolo (reduced red wine) sauce and pumpkin puree. It was served with violet cauliflower – a pleasant surprise with its bold, vibrant color contrasting well with beef. 

And if, after partaking of either the Chinese a la carte or the Italian station at the buffet, you suddenly feel like walking down Mediterranean cobblestones or climbing the Great Wall, tip your hat to the pioneering traveller who was Marco Polo. You may not reach yet the places he had been to, but you can always be an explorer of food.

For feedback, send comments to joyce.panares@gmail.com

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