That was how our tour guide introduced to us “The islands of Venice,” which, until this visit, I didn’t know there were any. For me, it was a big discovery that Venice had other islands, 10 of them in the Venetian lagoon: San Francesco del Deserto, Isola Santa Cristina, Sant Erasmo, Lazzaretto Nuovo, San Michele, Lido, Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo, and Torcello.
Since it was a half-day tour that we joined, we had time to visit only three of these islands: Murano, Burano, and Torcello. As we embarked on the ferry from Venice’s Piazza di San Marco, our tour guide got me all revved up as she described the beauty of these islands, and gave us useful tips on what to do when we get there.
Murano
Who hasn’t heard of these very expensive, much coveted artistic glass pieces? Anybody worth his grain of salt in home accessorizing knows that Murano glass items perk up home interiors with elegance and classy flair.
This island is the closest to Venice proper and remains the most visited among all the others in the lagoon. Its internationally renowned glass-making industry dates back to the 13th century. However, history shows that this industry actually started in Venice, but the fear of fire burning down the city, which was made up of wooden buildings then, had the furnaces relocated to nearby Murano.
We visited the oldest and the biggest glass-making company on the island, 90-year-old Ferro & Lazzarini. A company officer toured us around and showed us the processes that silicone undergoes for it to eventually become a glass masterpiece that commands sky-high prices. It is very interesting to watch how an ordinary looking element could be transformed into an awesome work of art.
After the glass-blowing session, which was demonstrated by one of the factory’s experienced workers, we were led to their showroom which had all shapes and sizes of decorative pieces for home.
Going through the entire showroom makes one feel like being in a glass wonderland.
There were elaborately designed chandeliers, samples of contemporary art, home accessories, and those signature Murano beads that have been crafted in a variety of glass-blowing processes. Looking at all the masterpieces around me, I couldn’t stop myself from buying a few items to bring home.
Burano
It looks like each of the Venetian islands has a particular specialty in arts and crafts. This one is known all over the world for its lace-making industry, aside from the fact that tourists find its bright-colored houses a real come-on.
The island has a very interesting Lace Museum that exhibits, not just exquisitely crafted lace products, but also tells the history of how this lace-making tradition started.
It was in the 16th century when women on the island began making lace with needles, an industry introduced to the island by Cyprus which, at that time, was ruled by Venice. What made the industry popular was when Leonardo da Vinci visited the island and purchased a piece of lace-covered cloth for the altar of the Duomo di Milano. Everybody raved about it, and the lace from Burano was exported all over Europe.
The industry experienced a decline in the early 18th century but was revived in the 19th century when a lace-making school opened in Burano. However, very few women now make lace in the traditional manner because it is very time-consuming and, therefore, very expensive. Items with lace on them are now being mass produced on the island with the use of modern machinery.
Burano’s main source of income is tourism.
Torcello
This tiny island has very few residents, but it gets very busy during the summer as hordes of tourists flock to it via the available tour ferries. Although there are many sites that attract visitors, I was interested in only two—the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta (Basilica of the Blessed Mary of the Assumption), with its mosaics of Venetian-Byzantine designs; and the Ponte del Diavolo (Bridge of the Devil), a bridge with no protective railing.
Just as our ferry docked in the island’s pier, the weather suddenly changed. Very strong gusts of wind pervaded, forcing stores to close, and residents to barricade their windows and doors for protection from objects carried by the nasty wind.
Even the basilica locked up and we only had time to view the scary bridge that tourists ordinarily have fun crossing, but not this time when very strong winds kept people off-balance, especially when there were no railings to hold on to.
Needless to say, the foul weather forced us to rush back to our tour ferry and return to Venice, but satisfied to have spent an afternoon of memorable discoveries. My foray into these islands in the Venetian lagoon was just the start of a weeklong “escapade” to a destination that I have always dreamed of visiting on my birthday.
With gratitude to my youngest sister, Esperanza, who made all the arrangements on my behalf, I echo what Italians always say, “La vita e un sogno” (Life is a dream).
YOUR WEEKEND CHUCKLE
Alcohol does not solve problems; but, then again, neither does milk.
For feedback, I’m at bobzozobrado@gmail.com.